Following Ghosts ● Turkey

Absence...
In present-day Turkey, I am following in the footsteps of my Armenian family. In their villages, their regions, only the absence could be felt.

In Anatolia, in the East of Turkey, time did its work, a century after the genocide of 1915. My great grandparents were from the Sivas region, and they survived the genocide, settling in Marseilles. A hundred years after their departure, what remains of their lives, their tragedies? The Armenian question is delicate in Turkey. Unknown to many, it is denied, hushed up, waiting for it to fade away.

Despite these painful circumstances, and state negationism, benevolent Turks welcomed me, and helped me along my way. From Sivas to Ani, on the Armenian border, in 1700 km I saw many churches pillaged, destroyed, forgotten. In Yarhisar, I found the place where lived my great grandfather Hagop, whose name I bear. The muftar (mayor) lives nearby, and it is with open arms that he receives us, my friend Furkan and me, to tell me the tragic history of the village, at the time of my family.

The ghosts of the Armenian presence are palpable, but they remain ghosts, which do not bother anyone here anymore.
Around us, majestic landscapes, yet witness terrible atrocities. Turkish flags absolutely everywhere. And smiles, friendships, lots of commonalities, too.

It's a strange feeling to close this loop, to go back to the land where my family lived, then where killed, or drive them away ... and especially to feel a little ... at home.

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Thanks to a wonderful job of a SIvas friend, there is too a turkish version of all the comments. Teşekkür, Cengizhan can!

Devamsızlık...
Günümüz Türkiye'sinde, Ermeni ailemin ayak izlerini takip ediyorum. Köylerinde, bölgelerinde, sadece yokluğu hissedilebiliyor.
Anadolu'da, Türkiye'nin doğusundaki 1915 soykırımından bu yana yaklaşık bir asır geçti. Büyük büyükbabalarım Sivas bölgesindeydi ve Marsilya'ya yerleşerek soykırımdan kurtulmuşlardı. Ayrılışlarından yüz yıl sonra, hayatlarının kalıntıları, trajedileri mi? Ermeni sorunu Türkiye'de hassas bir konudur. Birçok kişi tarafından bilinmeyen, reddedilen, kaybolması için beklenen bir konu.
Bu acı verici koşullara ve devletin olumsuzluklarına rağmen, hayırsever Türkler beni karşıladı ve yolum boyunca bana yardımcı oldular. Sivas'tan Ani'ye, Ermenistan sınırında, 1700 km'de çok sayıda kilisenin yağma, yok etme, unutulmalarını gördüm. Yarhisar'da, ismimi taşıdığım büyük dedem Hagop'un yaşadığı yeri buldum. Muhtar (belediye başkanı) yakınımızda yaşıyor ve o bize, ailemin zamanında köydeki trajik tarihini anlatmak için arkadaşım Furkan'la beni hoşgörülülükle yanına çağırdı.
Ermeni varlığının hayaletleri hissedilebiliyor, ama artık burada kimseyi rahatsız etmeyen hayaletler.
Çevremizdeki görkemli manzaralar, yine de korkunç zulümlere tanıklık etmiş manzaralar. Türk bayrakları kesinlikle her yerdeler. Birçok ortak yanı ve arkadaşlıklarıyla gülümsüyorlar…
Bu döngüyü kapatmak, ailemin yaşadığı toprağa geri dönmek, sonra nerede öldürülmek, ya da onları uzaklaştırmak... Ve özellikle evde hissetmek... Garip bir his.
Ani. The huge cathedral destroyed, but, despite this, majestic. ············································································································································································································································· Ani. Devasa katedral yıkılmış, ancak buna rağmen görkemli.
Ani. The huge cathedral destroyed, but, despite this, majestic.
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Ani. Devasa katedral yıkılmış, ancak buna rağmen görkemli.

Gürün. Solitary and infinite roads. ············································································································································································································································· Gürün. Soliter ve sonsuz yollar.
Gürün. Solitary and infinite roads.
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Gürün. Soliter ve sonsuz yollar.

Gümüştepe. In the village of Gümüştepe, formerly named Yapaltun, the elders kill time at the grocery store. Haji and Kader recite a litany of Armenian names, some were their friends: ‟They went to Istanbul, the others died, there are no more in the village‟. Hakan (right) takes care of his granddaughter Fatmanur. He returned to retire after 10 years in Dusseldorf. ············································································································································································································································· Gümüştepe. Eski adı Yapaltun isimli Gümüştepe köyünde yaşlılar bakkalda zaman öldürüyorlar. Haji ve Kader Ermeni isimleriydi, bazıları da arkadaşlarıydı: ‟İstanbul'a gittiler, diğerleri öldü, köyde artık yok‟. Hakan (sağda) torunu Fatmanur ile ilgileniyor. Duesseldorf’ta 10 yıl sonra emekli olunca köyüne döndü.
Gümüştepe. In the village of Gümüştepe, formerly named Yapaltun, the elders kill time at the grocery store. Haji and Kader recite a litany of Armenian names, some were their friends: ‟They went to Istanbul, the others died, there are no more in the village‟. Hakan (right) takes care of his granddaughter Fatmanur. He returned to retire after 10 years in Dusseldorf.
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Gümüştepe. Eski adı Yapaltun isimli Gümüştepe köyünde yaşlılar bakkalda zaman öldürüyorlar. Haji ve Kader Ermeni isimleriydi, bazıları da arkadaşlarıydı: ‟İstanbul'a gittiler, diğerleri öldü, köyde artık yok‟. Hakan (sağda) torunu Fatmanur ile ilgileniyor. Duesseldorf’ta 10 yıl sonra emekli olunca köyüne döndü.

Kars. The thousand-year-old remains of Kümbet Church are tearing the landscape apart. ············································································································································································································································· Kars. Kümbet Kilisesi'nin bin yıllık kalıntıları, manzarayı birbirinden koparıyor.
Kars. The thousand-year-old remains of Kümbet Church are tearing the landscape apart.
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Kars. Kümbet Kilisesi'nin bin yıllık kalıntıları, manzarayı birbirinden koparıyor.

Abrank Monastery, Üçpınar. ············································································································································································································································· Abrank Manastırı, Üçpınar.
Abrank Monastery, Üçpınar.
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Abrank Manastırı, Üçpınar.

Abrank Monastery, Üçpınar. The monastery church, disemboweled and returned by the gold diggers, now serves as a stable for cow herds. ············································································································································································································································· Abrank Manastırı, Üçpınar. Altın külçeler için sökülen ve geri dönen manastır kilisesi, şimdi inek sürüleri için bir ahır olarak hizmet ediyor.
Abrank Monastery, Üçpınar. The monastery church, disemboweled and returned by the gold diggers, now serves as a stable for cow herds.
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Abrank Manastırı, Üçpınar. Altın külçeler için sökülen ve geri dönen manastır kilisesi, şimdi inek sürüleri için bir ahır olarak hizmet ediyor.

Abrank Monastery, Üçpınar. ············································································································································································································································· Abrank Manastırı, Üçpınar.
Abrank Monastery, Üçpınar.
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Abrank Manastırı, Üçpınar.

Erzincan. Hills, between Erzincan and Erzerum. ············································································································································································································································· Erzincan. Erzincan ve Erzurum arasındaki tepeler.
Erzincan. Hills, between Erzincan and Erzerum.
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Erzincan. Erzincan ve Erzurum arasındaki tepeler.

Abrank Monastery, Üçpınar. The largest Armenian khatckars (‟stone cross‟) of the world are there, abandoned, from the height of their 6 meters, and their 9 centuries. It is the only Armenian monument present in the guide of the Tourist Office of the region, but its origin is not mentioned, and its Armenian writings are detailed as ‟Ottoman‟. ············································································································································································································································· Abrank Manastırı, Üçpınar. Dünyanın en büyük Ermeni khatckarları (‟taş çarpı‟) 6 metre yüksekliğinden ve 9 asırdan beri terkedilmişlerdir. Bölgenin Turizm Ofisi'nin rehberliğinde bulunan tek Ermeni anıtıdır, ancak kökeni belirtilmemiştir ve Ermeni yazıları ‟Osmanlı‟ olarak ayrılmıştır.
Abrank Monastery, Üçpınar. The largest Armenian khatckars (‟stone cross‟) of the world are there, abandoned, from the height of their 6 meters, and their 9 centuries.
It is the only Armenian monument present in the guide of the Tourist Office of the region, but its origin is not mentioned, and its Armenian writings are detailed as ‟Ottoman‟.
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Abrank Manastırı, Üçpınar. Dünyanın en büyük Ermeni khatckarları (‟taş çarpı‟) 6 metre yüksekliğinden ve 9 asırdan beri terkedilmişlerdir. Bölgenin Turizm Ofisi'nin rehberliğinde bulunan tek Ermeni anıtıdır, ancak kökeni belirtilmemiştir ve Ermeni yazıları ‟Osmanlı‟ olarak ayrılmıştır.

Kars. Built before the year 1000, the Kümbet church suddenly appears from the fast lane at the turn of a bend. ············································································································································································································································· Kars. 1000 yılından önce yapılmış olan Kümbet kilisesi, bir virajın dönüşünde aniden görünmektedir.
Kars. Built before the year 1000, the Kümbet church suddenly appears from the fast lane at the turn of a bend.
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Kars. 1000 yılından önce yapılmış olan Kümbet kilisesi, bir virajın dönüşünde aniden görünmektedir.

Gürün. Between the mountains lies Gürün, a town of 10,000 inhabitants. It is one of the few cities that has not changed its name after the fall of the Ottoman Empire. And that's where my great-grandmother Marie was born. ············································································································································································································································· Gürün. Dağlar arasında 10.000 nüfusu olan Gürün yer alıyor. Osmanlı İmparatorluğu'nun çöküşünden sonra adını değiştirmemiş birkaç şehirden biridir. Ve büyükannemin Marie’nin doğduğu yer burası.
Gürün. Between the mountains lies Gürün, a town of 10,000 inhabitants. It is one of the few cities that has not changed its name after the fall of the Ottoman Empire. And that's where my great-grandmother Marie was born.
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Gürün. Dağlar arasında 10.000 nüfusu olan Gürün yer alıyor. Osmanlı İmparatorluğu'nun çöküşünden sonra adını değiştirmemiş birkaç şehirden biridir. Ve büyükannemin Marie’nin doğduğu yer burası.

Gürün. The center of the city of Gürün, lurking at the bottom of a valley, presents all the soulless clichés of medium-sized cities of Anatolia. ············································································································································································································································· Gürün. Bir vadinin dibinde gizlenen Gürün şehrinin merkezi, orta büyüklükteki Anadolu şehirlerinin geçmişin ruhsuz klişelerini sunuyor.
Gürün. The center of the city of Gürün, lurking at the bottom of a valley, presents all the soulless clichés of medium-sized cities of Anatolia.
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Gürün. Bir vadinin dibinde gizlenen Gürün şehrinin merkezi, orta büyüklükteki Anadolu şehirlerinin geçmişin ruhsuz klişelerini sunuyor.

Sivas. The election campaign is in full swing as the elections approach. ············································································································································································································································· Sivas. Seçim kampanyası seçim yaklaşımı olarak hızla ilerliyor.
Sivas. The election campaign is in full swing as the elections approach.
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Sivas. Seçim kampanyası seçim yaklaşımı olarak hızla ilerliyor.

Gürün. The old Armenian church Surp Asvadzadzin is now a wasteland, between public toilets and dump. ············································································································································································································································· Gürün. Eski Ermeni kilisesi Surp Asdvadzadzin şimdi halk tuvaletleri ve çöplük arasında bir çorak arazidir.
Gürün. The old Armenian church Surp Asvadzadzin is now a wasteland, between public toilets and dump.
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Gürün. Eski Ermeni kilisesi Surp Asdvadzadzin şimdi halk tuvaletleri ve çöplük arasında bir çorak arazidir.

Gürün. The old Armenian church Surp Asvadzadzin. ············································································································································································································································· Gürün. Eski Ermeni Kilisesi Surp Asvadzadzin.
Gürün. The old Armenian church Surp Asvadzadzin.
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Gürün. Eski Ermeni Kilisesi Surp Asvadzadzin.

Gürün. Unusual garbage dotting the old church. ············································································································································································································································· Gürün. Eski kiliseyi süsleyen alışılmadık çöp.
Gürün. Unusual garbage dotting the old church.
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Gürün. Eski kiliseyi süsleyen alışılmadık çöp.

Mancılık. The old church serves as a shed for tractor tires, and dung bags. ············································································································································································································································· Mancılık. Eski kilise traktör lastikleri ve gübre poşetleri için bir kulübe olarak hizmet vermektedir.
Mancılık. The old church serves as a shed for tractor tires, and dung bags.
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Mancılık. Eski kilise traktör lastikleri ve gübre poşetleri için bir kulübe olarak hizmet vermektedir.

Mancılık. The owner of the old Armenian church, turned into a barn, greets me very kindly and makes the visit. The villagers protested to the government, to prevent the scheduled destruction of the building. The man lives in the house next door, and improvises willingly guide despite the impossibility of walking. ············································································································································································································································· Mancılık. Eski Ermeni kilisesinin sahibi, bir ahıra dönüştürmüş, beni çok nazik bir şekilde karşıladı ve misafir olarak ağırladı. Köylüler, planlanan tahribatı önlemek için hükümeti protesto ettiler. Adam yandaki evde yaşıyor ve yürümenin imkânsızlığına rağmen istekli olarak doğaçlama yapıyor.
Mancılık. The owner of the old Armenian church, turned into a barn, greets me very kindly and makes the visit. The villagers protested to the government, to prevent the scheduled destruction of the building. The man lives in the house next door, and improvises willingly guide despite the impossibility of walking.
·············································································································································································································································
Mancılık. Eski Ermeni kilisesinin sahibi, bir ahıra dönüştürmüş, beni çok nazik bir şekilde karşıladı ve misafir olarak ağırladı. Köylüler, planlanan tahribatı önlemek için hükümeti protesto ettiler. Adam yandaki evde yaşıyor ve yürümenin imkânsızlığına rağmen istekli olarak doğaçlama yapıyor.

Sivas. The city is very nice, wide streets, and many green areas. Despite Ramadan, the streets, even during the day, are very lively. ············································································································································································································································· Sivas. Şehir çok güzel, geniş sokaklar ve birçok yeşil alan. Ramazan'a rağmen, sokaklar gün boyunca bile çok canlı.
Sivas. The city is very nice, wide streets, and many green areas. Despite Ramadan, the streets, even during the day, are very lively.
·············································································································································································································································
Sivas. Şehir çok güzel, geniş sokaklar ve birçok yeşil alan. Ramazan'a rağmen, sokaklar gün boyunca bile çok canlı.

Sivas. Erdogan risks a lot in these elections. His face is omnipresent, sometimes smiling at the entrance of cities, sometimes hard and decided on political posters. ············································································································································································································································· Sivas. Bu seçimlerde Erdoğan için çok riskli. Yüzü her zaman, şehirlerin girişinde gülümsüyor, bazen sert ve politik posterlere karşımıza çıkıyor.
Sivas. Erdogan risks a lot in these elections. His face is omnipresent, sometimes smiling at the entrance of cities, sometimes hard and decided on political posters.
·············································································································································································································································
Sivas. Bu seçimlerde Erdoğan için çok riskli. Yüzü her zaman, şehirlerin girişinde gülümsüyor, bazen sert ve politik posterlere karşımıza çıkıyor.

Sivas. Prayer time at Ulu Cami Mosque (‟Great Mosque‟) during Ramadan. ············································································································································································································································· Sivas. Ramazan ayında Ulu Cami Camii'nde (‟Ulu Cami‟) namaz vakti.
Sivas. Prayer time at Ulu Cami Mosque (‟Great Mosque‟) during Ramadan.
·············································································································································································································································
Sivas. Ramazan ayında Ulu Cami Camii'nde (‟Ulu Cami‟) namaz vakti.

Yarhisar. At the entrance of the village, a resident indicates the house of muftar (mayor). ‟If you have information about Armenian gold, I take it!‟, he jokes. ············································································································································································································································· Yarhisar. Köyün girişinde bir mukim, muhtarın (belediye başkanı) evini gösterir. ‟Eğer Ermeni altın hakkında bilgi varsa, ben onu alıyorum!‟ Diye şaka yapıyor.
Yarhisar. At the entrance of the village, a resident indicates the house of muftar (mayor). ‟If you have information about Armenian gold, I take it!‟, he jokes.
·············································································································································································································································
Yarhisar. Köyün girişinde bir mukim, muhtarın (belediye başkanı) evini gösterir. ‟Eğer Ermeni altın hakkında bilgi varsa, ben onu alıyorum!‟ Diye şaka yapıyor.

Yarhisar. Safet, the muftar (mayor) of the village receives us with open arms. He brings his mother, who knows the history of the village. His children are here too. ‟What you're doing is good, you're right to come from so far to see us, because here it's your home. You are home.‟ Sitting around a glass of ayran, Safet and his mother tell me. ‟Yes, the Armenians lived here, 50 meters away, where there is the garden, a family with 2 sons, they went to France ... There were almost 15 families, we were brothers, and then .... it was War. ‟ I do not try to discuss their version of history, we do not change a century of state negationism in a few hours of discussion. They are generous, and receive us with pleasure. My friend Furkan, whom I will never thank enough, translates the entire conversation, and in return he translates everything I say, without censorship. The story of my great-grandfather, who, as a child, buried his parents killed by the gendarmes probably a few meters away. Safet and his family do not judge, they also sympathize. I touched what I came for. ‟Sleep here, eat here, stay with us tonight.‟ It's an unforgettable encounter, as beautiful as unexpected. ············································································································································································································································· Yarhisar. Saffet, köyün muhtarı (belediye başkanı) bize misafirperver yaklaşıyor. Köyün tarihini bilen annesini getiriyor. Onun çocukları da burada. ‟Yaptığın şey iyi, bizi görmek için şu ana kadar gelmek hakkın var, çünkü burası senin evin. Evdesin.‟ Bir bardak ayranın etrafında oturup, Saffet ve annesi bana anlatılar. ‟Evet, Ermeniler burada yaşadılar, 50 metre uzaklıkta, bahçenin olduğu yerde, 2 oğullu bir aile, Fransa'ya gittiler... 15 aileden oluşan, biz kardeştik ve sonra... Savaştı “Tarihin yorumunu tartışmaya çalışmıyorum, birkaç saatlik tartışmada bir yüzyıllık devlet negatifliğini değiştiremiyoruz. Cömertler ve bizi zevkle karşıladılar. Hiç bir zaman hakkını ödeyemeyeceğim arkadaşım Furkan, tüm sohbeti çevirir ve karşılığında söylediklerimi sansürsüz olarak tercüme ederdi. Büyük dedem, bir çocuk olarak, muhtemelen birkaç metre ötede jandarmalar tarafından öldürülen ailesini gömmüştü. Saffet ve ailesi yargılamıyor, aynı zamanda sempati duyuyorlar. Ne için geldiğime dokundum. ‟Burada uyu, burada ye, bu gece bizimle kal.‟ Beklenmedik kadar güzel, unutulmaz bir karşılaşma.
Yarhisar. Safet, the muftar (mayor) of the village receives us with open arms. He brings his mother, who knows the history of the village. His children are here too. ‟What you're doing is good, you're right to come from so far to see us, because here it's your home. You are home.‟ Sitting around a glass of ayran, Safet and his mother tell me. ‟Yes, the Armenians lived here, 50 meters away, where there is the garden, a family with 2 sons, they went to France ... There were almost 15 families, we were brothers, and then .... it was War. ‟ I do not try to discuss their version of history, we do not change a century of state negationism in a few hours of discussion. They are generous, and receive us with pleasure. My friend Furkan, whom I will never thank enough, translates the entire conversation, and in return he translates everything I say, without censorship. The story of my great-grandfather, who, as a child, buried his parents killed by the gendarmes probably a few meters away. Safet and his family do not judge, they also sympathize. I touched what I came for. ‟Sleep here, eat here, stay with us tonight.‟ It's an unforgettable encounter, as beautiful as unexpected.
·············································································································································································································································
Yarhisar. Saffet, köyün muhtarı (belediye başkanı) bize misafirperver yaklaşıyor. Köyün tarihini bilen annesini getiriyor. Onun çocukları da burada. ‟Yaptığın şey iyi, bizi görmek için şu ana kadar gelmek hakkın var, çünkü burası senin evin. Evdesin.‟ Bir bardak ayranın etrafında oturup, Saffet ve annesi bana anlatılar. ‟Evet, Ermeniler burada yaşadılar, 50 metre uzaklıkta, bahçenin olduğu yerde, 2 oğullu bir aile, Fransa'ya gittiler... 15 aileden oluşan, biz kardeştik ve sonra... Savaştı “Tarihin yorumunu tartışmaya çalışmıyorum, birkaç saatlik tartışmada bir yüzyıllık devlet negatifliğini değiştiremiyoruz. Cömertler ve bizi zevkle karşıladılar. Hiç bir zaman hakkını ödeyemeyeceğim arkadaşım Furkan, tüm sohbeti çevirir ve karşılığında söylediklerimi sansürsüz olarak tercüme ederdi. Büyük dedem, bir çocuk olarak, muhtemelen birkaç metre ötede jandarmalar tarafından öldürülen ailesini gömmüştü. Saffet ve ailesi yargılamıyor, aynı zamanda sempati duyuyorlar. Ne için geldiğime dokundum. ‟Burada uyu, burada ye, bu gece bizimle kal.‟ Beklenmedik kadar güzel, unutulmaz bir karşılaşma.


Yarhisar. The two sons of the muftar and his nephew know everything about the village and its surroundings. ············································································································································································································································· Yarhisar. Muhtarın iki oğlu ve yeğeni, köy ve çevresi hakkında her şeyi biliyorlar.
Yarhisar. The two sons of the muftar and his nephew know everything about the village and its surroundings.
·············································································································································································································································
Yarhisar. Muhtarın iki oğlu ve yeğeni, köy ve çevresi hakkında her şeyi biliyorlar.

Yarhisar. A villager greets us spontaneously when we leave. ············································································································································································································································· Yarhisar. Ayrıldığımız zaman bir köylü bizi kendiliğinden selamlıyor.
Yarhisar. A villager greets us spontaneously when we leave.
·············································································································································································································································
Yarhisar. Ayrıldığımız zaman bir köylü bizi kendiliğinden selamlıyor.

Yarhisar. The mountain overlooking the village is riddled with troglodyte caves, used as food reserves by the Armenians. ············································································································································································································································· Yarhisar. Köye bakan dağ, Ermeniler tarafından gıda rezervleri olarak kullanılan troglodyte mağaraları ile bezenmiştir.
Yarhisar. The mountain overlooking the village is riddled with troglodyte caves, used as food reserves by the Armenians.
·············································································································································································································································
Yarhisar. Köye bakan dağ, Ermeniler tarafından gıda rezervleri olarak kullanılan troglodyte mağaraları ile bezenmiştir.

Yarhisar. The sons of muftar detail in Furkan the panorama around the village. ‟There, the Armenians went with their riches, and returned without their gold.‟ The legend of the Armenians gold is persistent, it crosses the centuries. The hill is perforated with galleries. People are looking, again and again. ‟In this tunnel, a man from the village found the gold of the Armenians and became rich,‟ says Hasan. It shows us a little further: ‟There, under the big triangular rock, there are bones of Armenians, many bones everywhere.‟ They share with us everything they know, with empathy and friendship. ············································································································································································································································· Yarhisar. Muhtarın oğulları yarhisarın çevresini Furkan’a anlatırlarken. ‟Orada Ermeniler zenginlikleriyle gitti ve altınları olmadan döndü.‟ Ermenilerin altın efsanesinde halk ısrarlı, yüzyıllar geçmesine rağmen. Tepeler galerilerle perfore edilmiştir. İnsanlar tekrar tekrar bakıyorlar. Hasan, ‟Bu tünelde, köyden bir adam Ermenilerin altını buldu ve zengin oldu‟ diyor. Bizi biraz daha ileri götürüyor: ‟Orada, büyük üçgen kaya altında, Ermenilerin kemikleri, her yerde çok sayıda kemik var.‟ Empati yaparak arkadaşlık ile bildikleri her şeyi bizimle paylaştılar.
Yarhisar. The sons of muftar detail in Furkan the panorama around the village. ‟There, the Armenians went with their riches, and returned without their gold.‟ The legend of the Armenians gold is persistent, it crosses the centuries. The hill is perforated with galleries. People are looking, again and again. ‟In this tunnel, a man from the village found the gold of the Armenians and became rich,‟ says Hasan.
It shows us a little further: ‟There, under the big triangular rock, there are bones of Armenians, many bones everywhere.‟
They share with us everything they know, with empathy and friendship.
·············································································································································································································································
Yarhisar. Muhtarın oğulları yarhisarın çevresini Furkan’a anlatırlarken. ‟Orada Ermeniler zenginlikleriyle gitti ve altınları olmadan döndü.‟ Ermenilerin altın efsanesinde halk ısrarlı, yüzyıllar geçmesine rağmen. Tepeler galerilerle perfore edilmiştir. İnsanlar tekrar tekrar bakıyorlar. Hasan, ‟Bu tünelde, köyden bir adam Ermenilerin altını buldu ve zengin oldu‟ diyor. Bizi biraz daha ileri götürüyor: ‟Orada, büyük üçgen kaya altında, Ermenilerin kemikleri, her yerde çok sayıda kemik var.‟ Empati yaparak arkadaşlık ile bildikleri her şeyi bizimle paylaştılar.

Yarhisar. The women of the village talk to each other, and greet us with a smile. ············································································································································································································································· Yarhisar. Köyün kadınları birbirleriyle konuşur ve bizi bir gülümseme ile karşılar.
Yarhisar. The women of the village talk to each other, and greet us with a smile.
·············································································································································································································································
Yarhisar. Köyün kadınları birbirleriyle konuşur ve bizi bir gülümseme ile karşılar.

Yarhisar. The nephew of the muftar leads us behind the site of the old church, in a mystical cave, with walls engraved with serpents. ············································································································································································································································· Yarhisar. Muhtarın yeğeni, mistik bir mağarada, yılan şekilleriyle oyulmuş duvarlarla, eski kilisenin bulunduğu yere götürüyor.
Yarhisar. The nephew of the muftar leads us behind the site of the old church, in a mystical cave, with walls engraved with serpents.
·············································································································································································································································
Yarhisar. Muhtarın yeğeni, mistik bir mağarada, yılan şekilleriyle oyulmuş duvarlarla, eski kilisenin bulunduğu yere götürüyor.

Çimenyenice. Called Stanos before the genocide, it is the village of my great grandfather Yepreme. ············································································································································································································································· Çimenyenice. Soykırımdan önce Stanos denilen, büyük büyükbabam Yepreme'nin köyü.
Çimenyenice. Called Stanos before the genocide, it is the village of my great grandfather Yepreme.
·············································································································································································································································
Çimenyenice. Soykırımdan önce Stanos denilen, büyük büyükbabam Yepreme'nin köyü.

Çimenyenice. At the foot of the old Armenian church, transformed into a mosque, the elders warmly welcome us: ‟We do not know the ancient history of the village ... The Armenians went to Istanbul, we were not born ... But we are happy to welcome you, you are here at home! ‟ ············································································································································································································································· Çimenyenice. Eski Ermeni kilisesinin dibinde bir camiye dönüştürülmüş, yaşlılar bizi sıcak karşıladılar: ‟Köyün tarihi geçmişini bilmiyoruz... Ermeniler İstanbul'a gittiğinde biz henüz doğmamıştık... Ama biz Sizi ağırlamaktan mutluluk duyuyoruz, burada evinizdesiniz! ‟
Çimenyenice. At the foot of the old Armenian church, transformed into a mosque, the elders warmly welcome us: ‟We do not know the ancient history of the village ... The Armenians went to Istanbul, we were not born ... But we are happy to welcome you, you are here at home! ‟
·············································································································································································································································
Çimenyenice. Eski Ermeni kilisesinin dibinde bir camiye dönüştürülmüş, yaşlılar bizi sıcak karşıladılar: ‟Köyün tarihi geçmişini bilmiyoruz... Ermeniler İstanbul'a gittiğinde biz henüz doğmamıştık... Ama biz Sizi ağırlamaktan mutluluk duyuyoruz, burada evinizdesiniz! ‟

Tuzhisar.
Tuzhisar.

Between Erzincan and Erzerum. ············································································································································································································································· Erzincan ve Erzurum arasında.
Between Erzincan and Erzerum.
·············································································································································································································································
Erzincan ve Erzurum arasında.

Between Erzincan and Erzerum. ············································································································································································································································· Erzincan ve Erzurum arasında.
Between Erzincan and Erzerum.
·············································································································································································································································
Erzincan ve Erzurum arasında.

Abrank Monastery, Üçpınar. ············································································································································································································································· Abrank Manastırı, Üçpınar.
Abrank Monastery, Üçpınar.
·············································································································································································································································
Abrank Manastırı, Üçpınar.

Erzerum. Surp Minas Church, in the Gezköy district, is in poor condition. Surrounded by garbage, excavated from one side to the other, it serves as a latrine for workers in the surrounding construction sites ... The inexorable progression of the surrounding buildings will probably end in a few years to its slow agony ... ············································································································································································································································· Erzurum. Gezköy ilçesinde Surp Minas Kilisesi kötü durumda. Bir taraftan diğer tarafa kazılan çöplerle çevrili, etrafı çevreleyen şantiyelerde çalışanlar için bir tuvalet görevi görüyor... Çevresindeki binaların beklenmedik ilerleyişi muhtemelen birkaç yıl içinde yavaşça çökecek...
Erzerum. Surp Minas Church, in the Gezköy district, is in poor condition. Surrounded by garbage, excavated from one side to the other, it serves as a latrine for workers in the surrounding construction sites ... The inexorable progression of the surrounding buildings will probably end in a few years to its slow agony ...
·············································································································································································································································
Erzurum. Gezköy ilçesinde Surp Minas Kilisesi kötü durumda. Bir taraftan diğer tarafa kazılan çöplerle çevrili, etrafı çevreleyen şantiyelerde çalışanlar için bir tuvalet görevi görüyor... Çevresindeki binaların beklenmedik ilerleyişi muhtemelen birkaç yıl içinde yavaşça çökecek...

Ani. In the ancient Armenian capital, the ramparts bear witness to the stigmata of the battles and the grandeur of the city. ············································································································································································································································· Ani. Eski Ermeni başkentinde surlar, savaşların ve şehrin ihtişamının damgalanmasına tanıklık ediyor.
Ani. In the ancient Armenian capital, the ramparts bear witness to the stigmata of the battles and the grandeur of the city.
·············································································································································································································································
Ani. Eski Ermeni başkentinde surlar, savaşların ve şehrin ihtişamının damgalanmasına tanıklık ediyor.

Ani. Formerly Armenian capital, the ‟city of Thousand Churches‟ today marks the border with Armenia, located a hundred meters from the churches destroyed. A huge Turkish flag floats ostensibly on the ruins, well visible for the other side of the border. ············································································································································································································································· Ani. Eskiden Ermeni başkenti olan ‟Bin Kilise‟ kenti bugün Ermenistan sınırını, yıkılan kiliselerden yüz metre uzaklıkta işaret ediyor. Büyük bir Türk bayrağı, sınırın diğer tarafında iyi görülebilen harabeler üzerinde görünür bir şekilde dalgalanıyor.
Ani. Formerly Armenian capital, the ‟city of Thousand Churches‟ today marks the border with Armenia, located a hundred meters from the churches destroyed. A huge Turkish flag floats ostensibly on the ruins, well visible for the other side of the border.
·············································································································································································································································
Ani. Eskiden Ermeni başkenti olan ‟Bin Kilise‟ kenti bugün Ermenistan sınırını, yıkılan kiliselerden yüz metre uzaklıkta işaret ediyor. Büyük bir Türk bayrağı, sınırın diğer tarafında iyi görülebilen harabeler üzerinde görünür bir şekilde dalgalanıyor.