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At the crossroads of small and great history, Armenia is a living and mysterious land. Rich in a multimillennial history, its old monasteries, shrouded in mystery, seem dormant, eternal before the turpitudes of the centuries.
The young Republic of Armenia, independent since 1991, is taking a deep breath when it comes to looking at the road traveled. Here each Armenian bears the weight of his story. The genocide perpetrated in 1915 remains a vibrant trauma despite the past century.
Since then, the road has remained difficult. The Turkish embargo, the years of communism in the USSR, the 1988 earthquake that killed 30,000, or the war against Azerbaijan over Nagorno-Karabakh (Artsakh) ... The litany of trials hardened the Armenian people.
Closer to us, in 2015, the centenary year of the genocide, the influx of Armenian refugees from Syria fleeing the Islamic State, and often descendants of the survivors of the "death marches" of 1915, calls out as a macabre eyeblink of History.
The country still bears the stigma of years under Soviet influence. With the fall of the Empire, the inequalities progressed according to the sadly banal scheme of the former republics of USSR. The oligarchs prospered, creating disparities, sometimes vampirising wealth. The oldest regret this blessed time when everyone ate their fill, where tomorrow was not a worry.
The Church has also been able to resume its central place in society, which was not the case during the Soviet years. Christian First Nation of History, Armenia is a fervent believer. The Church has always cemented social relations between Armenians in all the countries of the diaspora and instilled hope among those who suffered.
Today in Armenia, life is written in the present tense...
And yet, it will often be necessary to leave, if someone finds the occasion. In Russia, in the United States, in France ... .to a cousin, an uncle, a son ... and join the diaspora, whose number now exceeds the population living in the country.
At the foot of Mount Ararat, Armenia remains generous, smiling and modest.
A wind of conscience sweeps the country. Here and there, defenders of democracy, idealists, are still heard, despite the terrible repression exercised by the regime.
The country is opening up, tourism is developing, the youth is investing in its future, committing itself. There are many reasons to hope.
In Armenia, life is hard. We suffer, and we laugh there too.
But surviving is not an option, since this is the fate of the Armenians. Just one more test ...
In 2014, I decided to leave for the first time alone in Armenia and Artsakh, in the footsteps of my origins. There, I do not have a family, and I do not know anyone. This initial trip led me to return several times thereafter, according to meetings, forged friendships, and journeys traveled.
The young Republic of Armenia, independent since 1991, is taking a deep breath when it comes to looking at the road traveled. Here each Armenian bears the weight of his story. The genocide perpetrated in 1915 remains a vibrant trauma despite the past century.
Since then, the road has remained difficult. The Turkish embargo, the years of communism in the USSR, the 1988 earthquake that killed 30,000, or the war against Azerbaijan over Nagorno-Karabakh (Artsakh) ... The litany of trials hardened the Armenian people.
Closer to us, in 2015, the centenary year of the genocide, the influx of Armenian refugees from Syria fleeing the Islamic State, and often descendants of the survivors of the "death marches" of 1915, calls out as a macabre eyeblink of History.
The country still bears the stigma of years under Soviet influence. With the fall of the Empire, the inequalities progressed according to the sadly banal scheme of the former republics of USSR. The oligarchs prospered, creating disparities, sometimes vampirising wealth. The oldest regret this blessed time when everyone ate their fill, where tomorrow was not a worry.
The Church has also been able to resume its central place in society, which was not the case during the Soviet years. Christian First Nation of History, Armenia is a fervent believer. The Church has always cemented social relations between Armenians in all the countries of the diaspora and instilled hope among those who suffered.
Today in Armenia, life is written in the present tense...
And yet, it will often be necessary to leave, if someone finds the occasion. In Russia, in the United States, in France ... .to a cousin, an uncle, a son ... and join the diaspora, whose number now exceeds the population living in the country.
At the foot of Mount Ararat, Armenia remains generous, smiling and modest.
A wind of conscience sweeps the country. Here and there, defenders of democracy, idealists, are still heard, despite the terrible repression exercised by the regime.
The country is opening up, tourism is developing, the youth is investing in its future, committing itself. There are many reasons to hope.
In Armenia, life is hard. We suffer, and we laugh there too.
But surviving is not an option, since this is the fate of the Armenians. Just one more test ...
In 2014, I decided to leave for the first time alone in Armenia and Artsakh, in the footsteps of my origins. There, I do not have a family, and I do not know anyone. This initial trip led me to return several times thereafter, according to meetings, forged friendships, and journeys traveled.
Saghmosavank, Armenia..
Yeghegis Valley, Armenia.
Facing the immense sky, perched in the mountains and guarded by the village dogs, the cemeteries proudly keep track of the region's inhabitants.
Facing the immense sky, perched in the mountains and guarded by the village dogs, the cemeteries proudly keep track of the region's inhabitants.
Yeghegis Valley, Armenia.
Shepherd's hut.
Shepherd's hut.
Yeghegis Valley, Armenia.
In this marvelous valley, crossed by rivers, live ibexes, bears and men. A Jewish cemetery dating from the 13th century bears witness to the millennial presence of different peoples.
In this marvelous valley, crossed by rivers, live ibexes, bears and men. A Jewish cemetery dating from the 13th century bears witness to the millennial presence of different peoples.
Yerevan, Armenia.
At the Republic Stadium, the football match between Armenia and Turkey is obviously high tension.
At the Republic Stadium, the football match between Armenia and Turkey is obviously high tension.
Etchmiadzin, Armenia.
The Soviet resolutely abandoned parks, witnesses of a bygone era, resist somehow the weight of years.
The Soviet resolutely abandoned parks, witnesses of a bygone era, resist somehow the weight of years.
Near Mount Aragats, a dilapidated bus, rusty and riddled with bullets, contrasts sharply in the plain.
Anipemza, Armenia.
The ruined church of Ererouk stands at the foot of a canyon that serves as a border. 500 meters away, Turkey begins.
The ruined church of Ererouk stands at the foot of a canyon that serves as a border. 500 meters away, Turkey begins.
Mount Aragats, Armenia.
Gayané is Yazidie. With her family she lives from agriculture, nomadic, moving with the seasons. In summer, they set up their hives on the slopes of Mount Aragats. She sells honey, and lives like this half of the year.
The Yazidis are the main minority of Armenia. Persecuted by the Islamic State, many of them have recently joined Armenia, where they feel free and safe. The largest Yezidi temple in the world is currently under construction in Armenia, marking the strong ties that unite them to the Armenian people.
Gayané is Yazidie. With her family she lives from agriculture, nomadic, moving with the seasons. In summer, they set up their hives on the slopes of Mount Aragats. She sells honey, and lives like this half of the year.
The Yazidis are the main minority of Armenia. Persecuted by the Islamic State, many of them have recently joined Armenia, where they feel free and safe. The largest Yezidi temple in the world is currently under construction in Armenia, marking the strong ties that unite them to the Armenian people.
Tatev, Armenia.
In a cabin of the Tatev cable car. This one is the longest in the world. It is the pride of the region, and of the country more generally.
In a cabin of the Tatev cable car. This one is the longest in the world. It is the pride of the region, and of the country more generally.
Alaverdi, Armenia.
Stepan shows us a photograph that is close to his heart. A friend of his, Russian, air pilot, made a shot of Mount Ararat (symbol of Armenians, and located in Turkey) seen from the air, flying over Turkey. He is very proud of this image, rich in symbols, which moves him a lot.
At the back of the fireplace, a portrait of his son, who died at the age of 20 in Karabagh (Artsakh) on the front line.
Stepan shows us a photograph that is close to his heart. A friend of his, Russian, air pilot, made a shot of Mount Ararat (symbol of Armenians, and located in Turkey) seen from the air, flying over Turkey. He is very proud of this image, rich in symbols, which moves him a lot.
At the back of the fireplace, a portrait of his son, who died at the age of 20 in Karabagh (Artsakh) on the front line.
Yerevan, Armenia.
Sevan, Armenia.
Lake Sevan spreads its immensity at an altitude of 1900m. In addition to being one of the largest mountain lakes in the world, it is especially a place of relaxation for the Armenians, who like above all to taste the local fish.
Lake Sevan spreads its immensity at an altitude of 1900m. In addition to being one of the largest mountain lakes in the world, it is especially a place of relaxation for the Armenians, who like above all to taste the local fish.
Ohanavan, Armenia..
Sevan, Armenia.
Marmashen, Armenia.
Yepreme, 90 years old. Every day, his son drops him off at the monastery near which he owns an orchard, where he loves to take a nap under the apricot trees ....
Yepreme, 90 years old. Every day, his son drops him off at the monastery near which he owns an orchard, where he loves to take a nap under the apricot trees ....
Sevan, Armenia.
Around the lake, dozens of real estate complexes are abandoned, sometimes even when they are not completed.
Around the lake, dozens of real estate complexes are abandoned, sometimes even when they are not completed.
Sevan, Armenia.
Every Sunday, the rich Armenians of Yerevan go around the lake to spend time with family or friends.
Every Sunday, the rich Armenians of Yerevan go around the lake to spend time with family or friends.
Yeghegis Valley, Armenia.
Some cemeteries bear the scars of struggles and resentment between the different communities in the region.
Some cemeteries bear the scars of struggles and resentment between the different communities in the region.
Fioletovo, Armenia.
The Molokans are a religious community of Russian origin. In the few populated villages of Molokans, time seems to have stopped. Agricultural tasks are done by hand, and men, often carpenters, wear a long beard. Marriages are between members of the community, Slavic and Russian-speaking. With the Yazidis, it is one of the main communities living in Armenia.
The Molokans are a religious community of Russian origin. In the few populated villages of Molokans, time seems to have stopped. Agricultural tasks are done by hand, and men, often carpenters, wear a long beard. Marriages are between members of the community, Slavic and Russian-speaking. With the Yazidis, it is one of the main communities living in Armenia.
Fioletovo, Armenia.
Fioletovo, Armenia.
Field work in the Molokan village.
Field work in the Molokan village.
Yerevan, Armenia.
During excavations carried it a few years ago appeared a mysterious salt lake, in the middle of wasteland and abandoned factories. It has become a place of relaxation for the working classes who can not go to Lake Sevan.
During excavations carried it a few years ago appeared a mysterious salt lake, in the middle of wasteland and abandoned factories. It has become a place of relaxation for the working classes who can not go to Lake Sevan.
Yerevan, Armenia.
‟Aghi litch‟ (Salty Lake).
‟Aghi litch‟ (Salty Lake).
Yerevan, Armenia.
In the tortuous and timeless streets of Kond district. This district is one of the last still preserved by massive urbanization. But the real estate developers alloyed gradually nibble this neighborhood, traditionally inhabited by the lower classes.
In the tortuous and timeless streets of Kond district. This district is one of the last still preserved by massive urbanization. But the real estate developers alloyed gradually nibble this neighborhood, traditionally inhabited by the lower classes.
Yerevan, Armenia.
At the Gum market, the products are a delight for the eyes as much as for the taste buds.
At the Gum market, the products are a delight for the eyes as much as for the taste buds.
Byurakan, Armenia.
Samson, the warden of the Sourp Hovhannes church, takes very seriously the maintenance of the church in his village.
Samson, the warden of the Sourp Hovhannes church, takes very seriously the maintenance of the church in his village.
Sevan, Armenia.
In this place, the most touristic in the country, selling trinkets to visitors often helps to complete the small pension for many elderly people.
In this place, the most touristic in the country, selling trinkets to visitors often helps to complete the small pension for many elderly people.
Sevan, Armenia.
Sevan, Armenia.
Exit Sunday Mass.
Exit Sunday Mass.
Noraduz, Armenia.
The Antonyan family together on the graves of their family for a time of sharing in honor of the fallen. Always present in the village, it is a real small area of the cemetery that is dedicated to their ancestors. Between laughter and tears, food and alcohol are there in abundance.
The Antonyan family together on the graves of their family for a time of sharing in honor of the fallen. Always present in the village, it is a real small area of the cemetery that is dedicated to their ancestors. Between laughter and tears, food and alcohol are there in abundance.
Noraduz, Armenia.
Gyumri, Armenia.
Second largest city in Armenia, Gyumri was badly damaged by the 1988 earthquake that claimed more than 30,000 lives.
Second largest city in Armenia, Gyumri was badly damaged by the 1988 earthquake that claimed more than 30,000 lives.
Near Mount Aragats, Armenia.
Vanadzor, Armenia.
Vanadzor is an example of the decay that followed the fall of the USSR, and the independence of the country.
Formerly a thriving industrial city, the population is decreasing year by year, and Vanadzor is closer today to a cemetery of chemical plants than to the city it was a long time ago...
Vanadzor is an example of the decay that followed the fall of the USSR, and the independence of the country.
Formerly a thriving industrial city, the population is decreasing year by year, and Vanadzor is closer today to a cemetery of chemical plants than to the city it was a long time ago...
Makaravank, Armenia.
A stone's throw from the border with Azerbaijan, the Makaravank Monastery nestles, shrouded in mist. At the entrance is an ancient tree, at the foot of which the soldiers were blessed before leaving for the war.
A stone's throw from the border with Azerbaijan, the Makaravank Monastery nestles, shrouded in mist. At the entrance is an ancient tree, at the foot of which the soldiers were blessed before leaving for the war.
Sevan, Armenia.
The Soviet architectural heritage remains omnipresent.
The Soviet architectural heritage remains omnipresent.
Yerevan, Armenia.
Gyumri, Armenia.
Byurakan, Armenia.
Suren is taxi to Byurakan. He sometimes takes tourists to the slopes of Mount Aragats nearby, for hiking at high altitude. Rocked by patriotic songs throughout the journey, Suren explains the history, about his country, and his ancestral struggles. For him, Turkey will always be Enemy, and he remains convinced that the time will give the Armenians their revenge.
Suren is taxi to Byurakan. He sometimes takes tourists to the slopes of Mount Aragats nearby, for hiking at high altitude. Rocked by patriotic songs throughout the journey, Suren explains the history, about his country, and his ancestral struggles. For him, Turkey will always be Enemy, and he remains convinced that the time will give the Armenians their revenge.
Gyumri, Armenia.
In the martyred city, destroyed almost entirely by the earthquake of 1988, the churches were rebuilt and are the symbol of the new impetus of the city.
In the martyred city, destroyed almost entirely by the earthquake of 1988, the churches were rebuilt and are the symbol of the new impetus of the city.
Gyumri, Armenia.
Byurakan, Armenia.
Professor during the Soviet era, Rosa loves to spend her summer days on the village benches.
Professor during the Soviet era, Rosa loves to spend her summer days on the village benches.